Morocco

What I expected to encounter and see in Morocco was entirely different then the experience I had; both for better and for worse. Before visiting I had a very vague and incomplete picture of Morocco. I pictured a hot sand pit, overcrowded with people that extends from one end of beaches to the dunes of the Sahara. 

A truer and more honest picture would include a description of the Northern half of Morocco which is made up of vast expanses of fertile agricultural lands, forests, productive vineyards and lush, green grazing meadows. 

The best way I can describe Morocco is exciting. It is full of contrast, color and mystery. There were points where all I could do was simply catch my breath in wonder. It has a timeless quality that no longer exists in the modern world, a sense that the past with all its glory and savagery still lives on, threading in and out of the present. 

My friend Katelyn and I went with a group of probably the most random and unique bunch of people. We were not only the youngest people in the group but we were also the only Americans. The rest of the group members, all over the age of 35, consisted of 6 older Turkish men who wore polyester suits. They smoked cigs and never ashed them, flirted with all the Moroccan women and didn't believe in deodorant. There were 4 older Spanish women who HAD to have their photos taken at every attraction... one individual shot and one with all of them together. Then there was a large group of Germans who were always running late, but they were the happiest group of people I've come across since being here which is why they received the name "Jolly Germans."

We took a ferry from Spain across the Strait of Gibralter into Africa. The ferry ride was relatively smooth and uneventful but we were completely surrounded in fog. It was eerie and all of a sudden we were docking in Africa. The port in Africa is actually a Spanish colony called Cuenta. In Cuenta we boarded a bus and were able to drive through customs. Once we were officially in Morocco we drove to Tetuan. Upon arrival we were plunged into a culture, a religion and a lifestyle utterly unlike anything that I have ever experienced before. We walked through a typical Moroccan market where everything is bought from meat and vegetables to shoes and diapers. The market for me was the most thrilling part. 

My first reaction was how unrefined everything was. There were odors of mint and blossom mingling with the acrid smell of raw meat and fish. Everything was colorful and the people went about their daily rhythm that seems to barely have changed since the coming of Islam.  

Five times everyday there is a call to prayer that plays on loud speakers for everyone in town to hear. The men stop what they are doing and either pray or go to temple. The first time I witnessed it I thought it was fascinating.

Our tour guide for the whole trip was an Arabic man who spent the entire time telling us everything is Spanish, then repeating it in German, and then again in Arabic. I think in total he could speak 9 languages if he had to.

After a day in Tetuan we spent a day in Chefchaouen or Chaouen, as it is often called by Moroccans, is a charming little town nestled beneath two mountain peaks known as Ech-Chaoua (the horns) in the heart of Riff Mountains. This was my favorite place by far!

Chefchaouen is a small city were all its houses and buildings are blue-rinsed. This tradition comes from the town's former Jewish population. The doors are as blue as the sky above you, it is simply beautiful. Every street is better taken care of and cleaner than any other city in Morocco. Everything there was dramatically set climbing up the two mountain slopes, until the city ends at the point where the mountain walls become too steep for any settlements. The surroundings are lovely, with big trees with flowers and a system of passageways and small bridges, paths and pools where the locals meet to cool off or do their laundry. The town was simple and idyllic!

We toured through the small streets and saw where and how all their crafts are made. I bought a few souvenirs. This was not as simple as it sounds. Bargaining and haggling is the way of life. They start by asking for a ridiculous amount of money and little by little you come to an agreement much lower then the original asking price. This made me very uncomfortable and I felt like I was disrespecting their work by saying such a cheap price. It took some getting used to but by the end of the trip I could haggle with ease. We ate typical Moroccan food for lunch and I fell in love with the goat cheese. It was incredible. One thing our guide explained to us was that Chefchaouen is dry. So if you like alcohol with your meals you need to visit a supermarket in one of the major towns on your way to Chefchaouen. You may ask discretely for your wine to be opened by the restaurant, and they will decant into a jug to save offending the locals or arousing suspicion with the police. This was just an example of how private and religious the town was.

The next day we headed for Tangier and on the way we stopped for a ‘relaxing’ camel ride on the beach and ate lunch in a tent with a man and his family. I found Moroccans to be very friendly, polite, competitive and intensely curious about the outside world. Our tour guide explained that Islam is a thriving faith but Morocco's version is also extremely moderate, open minded and tolerant. I am finding that you can go a long way into the heart of any culture by feeling independent enough to accept their hospitality. 

Morocco is at a crossroads. Its a place where the East collides with the West and Africa literally shakes hands with Europe across the narrow straits of Gibraltar. It also marks the merger of the Mediterranean with the Atlantic and this gives Morocco two strikingly different coasts which I got to see. I also got to see the Mediterranean for the first time! I had a very successful Morocco trip and It is a place I would like to visit and explore more of someday.